FROSTBITE | STINKY SLEEPING BAGS | BACKPACK WEIGHT | LIGHTENING | TENT CARE | EXHAUSTION | BOOTS | SLEEPING BAGS DIFFERENCE | NEW TENT | APPROACH SHOES

Watch Out for Frostbite-

Deep Tissue:

There are two types of frostbite: superficial and deep-tissue.

First we'll talk about the deep-tissue kind.

Deep-tissue frostbite is serious. If superficial frostbite isn't treated, it can cause deep tissue damage.

Signs and Symptoms This type of frostbite is easy to recognize as the tissue freezes solid. The water within each cell expands as it freezes, causing tissue damage. The affected area becomes numb and hard and can turn gray or black.

Treatment Do not rewarm except in a medical setting. Rewarming can cause extreme pain and should only be done under expert supervision. Insulate the affected area (to prevent freezing or thawing), and get to a medical facility as soon as possible.

Prevention If superficial frostbite develops, do everything you can to prevent it from worsening. Rewarm the affected area by placing it in contact with warm skin.

Make sure you have the right clothing for the weather conditions. Check the forecast and be prepared for the worst.

Your body will let you know what is wrong. Pay attention to cold areas and try to keep them warm before they become numb.

Fuel your body correctly. You will stay warmer if you eat well and drink plenty of fluids.

The Superficial kind:

Superficial Frostbite: Superficial frostbite is an initial stage of tissue damage, which can progress to deep tissue frostbite if not treated. It occurs when skin is damaged by cold, but not frozen.

Signs and Symptoms Pale, white, numb skin, usually on the face, fingers, or toes. This is due to decreased blood circulation. The skin, however cold and numb, is still soft.

Treatment The best treatment is skin-to-skin warming. If, for example, the affected area is a finger, place the finger inside an armpit, directly against the skin.

After rewarming, a blister, called a BLEB, may form. Do not pop the blister.

Prevention Make sure you have the right clothing for the weather conditions. Check the forecast and be prepared for the worst.

Your body will let you know what is wrong. Pay attention to cold areas and try to keep them warm before they become numb.

Fuel your body correctly. You will stay warmer if you eat well and drink properly.

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As every good backpacker knows, there comes a time when you're going to have to feed your bag into a washing machine and depart from all those beautiful dirty ol' bag smells: the eight days you and two of your closest friends spent tent-bound on a mountainside in a storm; the aroma of a pinon pine campfire, the lovely dankness of the time your friend borrowed your bag, got caught in a rainstorm and neglected to tell you; and the trip you took when a marmot wandered over to your airing bag and marked his territory.... Oh yes, I know those smells well. Difficult to part with beautifully delicate odors like those.

To keep your bag fragrant, happy, and its loft nice and fluffy, it's best to wash it as infrequently as possible. Try using a thin liner to increase the time between washings. But, hey, if you can't manage to get your body into the bag, you're going to be cold, right? So into the washing machine it goes.

Here's some advice for washing your bag:

1. First off, read the label inside your bag. Some companies recommend specific washing instructions. If they do, follow them. They made the bag; they know what keeps it going best. Whatever you do, don't dry-clean your bag. The chemicals they use will kill it.

2. Use a front-loading washing machine, the kind you'll find at a laundromat. These don't have a center agitator, which can damage the bag's insulation and stitching.

3. Use a powder detergent rather than a liquid, which can damage the shell.

4. Wash in cold or warm water on a gentle cycle.

5. Tumble dry on low. Despite any tennis ball or sneaker fluffing advice you may have heard, disregard it. Using a shoe or ball to help fluff your bag actually damages the insulation.

6. After drying, let your bag hang out for awhile. Lay it on the bed and let the insulation relax and expand.

7. Store your bag in a large cotton stuff sack, which most sleeping bag manufacturers supply.

If you have a high-quality down bag that you're worried you might destroy, take it to a shop that specializes in down care, or send it to a down specialist, such as Feathered Friends in Seattle.

Hope your bag comes out smelling clean!!

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People often ask me how much weight I carry in my pack: It seems like I always answer, "Way too much."

How much should your pack weigh?

An excellent question, the answer to which can prevent a miserable trip: Try to carry as little as possible.

Seriously, you shouldn't carry more than about one-third of your body weight. So if you weigh 150 pounds, you should keep the weight under 45 pounds.

This rule is open to negotiation though.You can carry more, and sometimes you must, especially if you're heading on a long trip or ferrying loads on a mountain. If you're traveling in a group and you have someone who is big and strong and someone who is smaller and lithe, well, the big person may want to take a few extra pounds if the smaller person is struggling. The idea is to get your pack's weight to the point where you can manage it comfortably and reach camp in decent enough shape to set up a tent, cook dinner, and have some fun before hitting the hay.

I guess no matter how much weight's in there, especially with all the necessary gear these days, any pack is going to feel too heavy.

Don't carry too much weight out there.

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Lightning kills more people each year than all other natural disasters combined. Most of those people injured or killed are struck while outside.

Your best bet for avoiding a lightning strike is to watch the weather. Keep tabs on surrounding storms or prevalent weather patterns.

A good way to judge the distance of an approaching storm is to count the time between a lightning flash and the thunder. Count one-thousand-one, one-thousand-two and so on until you hear the thunder. Sound travels roughly one mile every five seconds. The closer the storm, the more dangerous your situation. If you can count under fifteen seconds, take immediate action.

During a Storm

Avoid high, open areas.

Stay away from bodies of water (lakes, ponds, streams, rivers).

Stay away from tall objects such as trees or towers.

Stay away from any metal objects.

Avoid low, damp areas such as caves, creek beds, or gullies.

Within Striking Radius (three miles)

Find a thick growth of small, short trees.

If you're in a group, avoid physical contact with other people. Spread out, but make sure you can see one another.

Remove all metal objects from your body.

Crouch down, with feet together and hands on knees. If you have an insulated pad, place it beneath your feet. Make yourself as small as possible. Do not lie down.

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Nothing worse than pitching your tent after being away from the woods for awhile, crawling into your sleeping bag, and being hit over the head by the stench of mildew: someone (not you, of course) forgot to air-dry the tent after that last rainstorm.

Here's how to keep your tent nice and happy:

1. Seam seal your tent. Most new tents will come with a seam sealer. Or visit your local shop (US) and buy a sealer such as Seam Sealer 3. Set up your tent in your backyard, living room (with the windows open), or other large space. Put the fly on inside out. Run the seam sealer along every seam on the fly and floor. Use two coats to make sure you've sealed every needle hole and stitch. Air-dry for several hours before storing.

2. Store your tent like a sleeping bag. Buy a cotton storage bag and let your tent have some air and space.

3. In the field, stuff your tent in the stuff sack (that's why it's called a "stuff" sack and not a "roll" sack). Though not as tidy as folding and rolling, stuffing your tent helps prevent creasing and damage to the same areas over and over, which can affect performance -- namely the tent's ability to keep you dry.

4. Use a ground cloth to protect the bottom of the tent.

5. Keep your tent out of the sun when you can. UV exposure breaks down nylon.

6. Before taking down the tent and moving on to the next campsite, clean it out as well as possible. Lift it into the air, upside down, over your head and shake out any debris. If possible, make sure it's dry before you pack it. If you don't have that luxury, shake off as much water as possible. Dry it out as soon as you can.

7. When you get home from your trip, set your tent up, sponge the floor (and any other dirty areas) clean with warm, soapy water. Let it dry completely, then store in a dry area.

8. If, by chance, you forget to air out the tent and find it has a bad case of mildew:

Mix one-half cup Lysol or other similar household cleaner in a gallon of hot water. Sponge the tent with a and air-dry completely. Once dry, use a mixture of one cup salt and one cup concentrated lemon juice in a gallon of hot water. Sponge the tent, air-dry, then store. If this doesn't work, well, you have hurt your tent and it won't last as long nor smell as good.

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Now that we're approaching the depths of summer, it's vital that you take care of your body. Be sure to drink lots of water -- four quarts or more per day if you're working out in the heat.

One problem that can result from prolonged physical activity in a hot environment is heat exhaustion.

Heat Exhaustion Though not life-threatening, heat exhaustion can cause nausea, lightheadedness, fatigue, exhaustion, and muscle cramps.

Heat exhaustion usually begins several hours after physical exertion. Or it can begin at the end of a long work out. Exhaustion is caused by fluid and electrolyte loss (through sweating).

Remedy Heat exhaustion will regulate itself with rest in about 12 hours. To treat immediately, dissolve a teaspoon of salt in a quart of water. Sip the entire quart slowly over a period of about 15 minutes. Do this several times over an hour to recover completely.

Do not use salt tablets. These can actually cause more harm than good. Slat tablets are concentrated and will draw water away from the body into the stomach causing further dehydration.

Prevention Stay hydrated. You need to replace the fluids you lose. Drink at least three to four quarts of water or an electrolyte drink, such as Gatorade, per day. If you're thirsty, craving water, than you're already dehydrated. Stay ahead of your thirst.

Snack on salty foods.

Wear loose clothing that allows air to pass through, such as cotton.

Wear a large brimmed hat to keep your head cool.

Pace yourself. If it's hot and humid and you feeling the symptoms coming on, slow down or stop what you're doing.

Avoid working out during the hottest part of the day.

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Buying hiking boots is a tricky business. It's one of the most important outdoor purchases you can make. Your feet require tender care, for they're your only transportation when you're out there. If you have miserable feet, you're going to be miserable as well. Boots are also expensive, so you need to make your investment wisely.

That said, it's important to get a great fit. Here are some tips for making sure your feet will enjoy the boot.

1. The boots should be comfortable when you put them on, nice and snug, but without pressure points. If the boots aren't comfy, try on other brands and models until you find a pair that is.

2. Before you even start walking around the store, stand up, and let your feet feel the way. The boots should be snug, comfortable, without pinching on any of the key pressure points: heels, sides of the ankles, arches, insteps, toes, and shins.

3. Wiggle your toes: there should be enough room to move your toes around in little circles. If they touch the front of the boot, go up a half-size.

4. Check the heel. You shouldn't have more than a quarter-inch of freedom. The fit should be snug, but not uncomfortable.

5. Check the fit of the tongue against your shin. Bring your foot up toward your knee without moving your leg. The tongue should move smoothly, without pinching, even when laced tightly.

6. Walk around. Climb some stairs. Do a little jog. Pretend you're walking down hill: jam your feet forward in the boots. Everything should feel snug and comfy.

7. If it doesn't feel good in the store, there's no way it will break-in and feel nice on the trail.

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A pivotal part of having a great trip is the quality of sleep you get, and your bag plays a decisive role. You need the right bag -- which one depends on your budget, the areas you plan on traveling through, and whether or not you will spend time taking care of your gear -- and with so many choices and prices, the decision can be downright hard.

So let me lay out some ideas, and then make some recommendations.

I use a down bag l, and that's what I'd recommend, if you can afford it and will take the time to care for it. Such bags are an investment (even the mid-priced ones, for the lighter a bag, the more you're going to have to pay), but they're worth the money. They last a long, long time and offer unparalleled comfort and durability. Most people go with down to save weight and to have a bag that's very compactible. Synthetics can't compare in these two departments.

I'd get a down bag if you can afford it and think that you'll be in places where the average rainfall isn't a highlight. You can use a down bag in places like southeastern Alaska, but you may want to consider a synthetic bag if you know you're heading to where it's going to be wet and sloppy most of the time. If not, if you think you're going to be in drier regions most of the time, go with the down.

However, a number of companies are introducing bags with a new synthetic fiber which compacts almost as well as down, but not quite. It's warm even when wet, fairly lightweight (compared with the older synthetic models), and half the cost of a down bag. This may be the way to go.

Other Synthetic Bags

These bags, insulated with synthetic filaments such as Quollofil, Lite Loft, Hollofil, and Polarguard, all work well in a variety of conditions, especially wet weather. Two drawbacks: they aren't very light, and they do not compact well. But they're the most affordable bags on the market.

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Nothing finer than buying a new tent, especially when it's a two-person model: nothing brings you closer to a friend or loved one. I'm also glad to see that you've decided to make an investment in a second home, because even when a tents a deal, it can cost you.

You need to think of your tent as an investment. It's much better to spend an extra $50-75 on a quality tent than to skimp. I've been in tents where a bit of skimping was involved (the owners are still friends). A cheap tent, we're talking a $50 special here, may work alright in good weather, but as soon as the wind rises and the skies open up, forget it. You'll be miserable. In many cases, a good tent can make a nightmare scenario downright cozy. So spend as much as you can afford, but always go with quality.

The first questions you need to ask before I can recommend a specific model are "when and where will you usually use your tent?" Are you a spring/summer/fall tent-user, or do you like to extend camping into the winter as well? Do you think you'll take your tent primarily on backpacking, rafting, sea kayaking, or car camping trips? Or do you enjoy heading up into the mountains where you'll be exposed to the elements: snow, wind, rain, hail, sleet, and all those fun experience-builders?

Basically, the more weather and snow you camp out in, the stronger your tent needs to be. Snow = a four-season tent. No snow or little snow = a three-season tent.

Four-season tents usually have stronger poles, heavier fabrics, less mesh, and remain sturdy in the wind and snow. They also have a little more room for gear and cooking. Three-season tents have more mesh, lighter poles and fabrics, and aren't as heavy-duty. Three-season also means less cash.

For instance, if you're only going to be backpacking during the summer months below tree line in the Rockies, for instance, there's no need to get a bomb-proof, four-season mountain shelter. They may look cool, but they're expensive, specialized, and heavy. Using a four-season tent, say on the beach in Mexico, is overkill.

If you find yourself embarking on both winter and summer camping trips, one option is a convertible tent. These shelters give you a three-season tent with the option of four-season. Such tents can be expensive, but you can think of it as getting two tents for the price of one.

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Hope I can help clear up any confusion you might have regarding these hot shoes. Technically speaking, an approach shoe is a cross between three different animals: climbing shoes, hiking boots, and running shoes.

Most approach shoes can take you anywhere -- from biking singletrack trails through the redwoods to scrambling up scree to a crack climb in Utah. These shoes are designed for scrambling over the earth and clinging to stone. The soles typically sport ultra-sticky rubber and are very stiff, to give you foot support and a stable platform when ascending steeper rock faces or boulders. Some characteristic features include leather construction in the impact zones (toe, heel, tongue, sidewalls), soles made of climbing rubber with recessed lugs, and laces that run from the toes all the way up to the base of the ankle.

Some approach shoes are built more like hiking boots, and others are constructed more along the lines of a trail runner. When you're trying on pairs at the store, think about what activity you'll most likely do more: trail running, hiking, climbing scree to get to the start of a route? Then buy an approach shoe that fits your needs.

Approach shoes have a lot of factors in their favor:

They're light, a nice change from clunky, hiking boots, even the lightweight ones; they breath better than conventional hiking boots; they have better traction, stick to rock, and make the going safer and easier in tricky terrain; and their narrow soles allow you to pinpoint your footstep and maneuver in tight spots.

All great highlights.

You don't want to wear approach shoes when carrying a big pack, however. Most shoes are low-cut and can't safely support the weight. Daypacks and other light loads are fine, but you still run the risk of rolling your ankle.

Approach shoes also aren't a good choice when the weather turns wet and cold.

And while there are some approach shoes out there that are more like running shoes, they're still rather stiff and don't offer as much arch support as a conventional trail runner.

All this said though, I love my approach shoes and wear them a lot. The only time I don't wear them around is when I am on an extended backpack with a beefy load.

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